Travel has never been my favourite thing. In fact, it is a lot of ‘travail’ (work, or laborious effort, in both French and English). Don’t get me wrong – I love finding myself in new places. It is the process of getting there that I’m not keen on, especially when airports are involved. Let’s face it, in these days of low-cost air travel, ongoing terror threats, and the evolving Covid rules, it’s a lot of work.
But when you are denied something, it takes on a particular allure. With husband up at least three ski vacations on me, during which time I had stayed home and looked after the ménagerie, I decided it was time to get my wings back.
The Greek islands have always been among my favourite places, and I happened to find a yoga retreat taking place on one of its more remote islands, Amorgos. It would be a ‘petit voyage, the kind I like best. A short flight followed by a ferry, with a stopover on another island. Easy peasy, right?
Travel is an acquired skill. And like any muscle, it needs work. Even organizing a weekend away becomes challenging if you haven’t done it in awhile. It was not my intention to bite off more than I could chew for my first solo trip in two years. But I suppose if I had thought too long about the complexity of traveling before the season began and while Covid rules were still in flux, I would have stayed home. Thankfully, I leaped before I looked.
First was the chicken-and-egg question of where to start. A quick google showed that connections were available, if not necessarily direct. The yoga retreat had a spot left, so I decided to start with that. Then I realized just how complex it would be to get to that island on that particular date, especially without going through Athens. I’ve been there before and wasn’t especially enamored of spending time in that huge city again, nor of taking a prop-engine plane to the islands. The 9-hour car ferry ride from Athens didn’t appeal either.
Our go-to airline for travel in the EU is easyJet. It’s a low-cost airline, with all the inconveniences of having to pay for everything à la carte, from bags to seat selection, but it does offer direct flights to secondary airports. So when I found a flight to Santorini, close by if not exactly at my destination, I grabbed it. Unfortunately it took off at an ungodly hour (another joy of EJ) and from Geneva, a 3 hour train journey from us, which meant I’d have to go the day before and book a hotel. No worries – I always love an excuse to go back to my former stomping ground and have dinner with a friend.
Then began the problem-solving part. The regular ferry connections I’d counted on were only just starting up in April after being closed for the winter, and in the end it was impossible to get to Amorgos without going through Naxos, and on different days. So I booked a night in Naxos and the ferry the following day. Slow travel appeals to me, and I liked the idea of doing a bit of island hopping.
It all worked out in the end but there were a few bumps along the way. First, departure at 6:00 a.m. from Geneva. Who would have imagined this many people would be willing to get up this early? I got through the notoriously long easyJet bag-drop line after 45 minutes and was advised not to waste any time getting to my gate. I soon learned why: it was at the furthest end of the airport, a jog at the best of times, not to mention while lugging a computer bag and additional carry-on. (What, me travel light?). I reached the gate just as the plane was boarding, with no time to stop for the toilet never mind a coffee, and made it to my seat. By then all the overhead lockers near me were taken so I had to schlep my carry-on to one near the back of the plane. So much for paying for up-front seating!
We took off on time and the flight was fairly smooth for the first two hours – just as well as I’m a nervous Nelly and it had been two years since I’d last been up in the air. But as we got closer to our destination the turbulence began. The Greek islands are known for high winds in April, so it seemed sort of par for the course. We began our bumpy descent and I saw the reddish toned mountains of Santorini begin to rise by the windows. Then, without warning, the engines went into turbo, we changed direction and began sharply going up again. A few minutes later, the captain stated what was now obvious: he had decided to abort the landing due to wind shear. There was nothing to worry about, it was perfectly normal, they were just going to do a little spin around the island and try the approach with a head wind instead. Unfortunately it was too late to order a drink. But I lost no time on landing (which we managed on the second try) to order a prosecco and toast my arrival in Greece over a late breakfast.
I took a taxi to the port to await my ferry. The high winds were blowing a haze of dust from the Sahara over the island, which gave it a post-apocalyptic air, even though it was fairly sunny.
Greek ferries are not known for being the most organized mode of travel. Several private companies operate different lines and there is little communication between them. The biggest ones are from Athens; smaller lines operate between the islands. The port in Santorini is not a nice place to wait. A couple of sticky-tabled cafés were open and swamped with tourists. There were no signs indicating anything about departures or arrivals. I went to the nearest office of the ferry company I had booked – now dragging my suitcase along with my two smaller bags – and asked about the departure for Naxos. “You wait there,” said the woman, pointing to an open shelter where a few people were congregating. Off I went. There were no seats but it was only an hour until the scheduled departure.
Thus began a wait that stretched into 2 ½ hours. Europeans don’t tend to talk to each other, unless in an emergency, so I could only wait and watch the others for signs. The crowd grew. Cars began to queue up just in front of the passenger area, some with the courtesy of switching off their engines, others continuing to blast diesel exhaust. As our wait grew longer, I was thankful for a nearby group of American tourists, one of whom seemed to know what was going on. Information was loudly exchanged. The ferry to Naxos was late. In the meantime another one arrived, apparently going to Mykonos, and we stood watching as several enormous trucks were off-loaded. Then began the slow on-boarding of cars.
I felt oddly calm, without my usual impatience. As we settled in for the wait, I began speaking French with the people in front of me. Turned out they were from the Ottawa valley, in Canada. We watched as a short man, mid-twenties and dressed in the same kind of gear as everyone else, arrived and began shouting at people to have their tickets ready. When the ferry was finally in the port, I nearly dislocated my shoulder dragging my bags up the steep ramp. Thankfully there were plenty of seats, and working toilets. It was a large catamaran, and the ride was smooth despite the choppy sea. Two hours later we arrived in Naxos, the sun was beginning to set and a driver waiting to take me to my hotel outside the main town where I settled in and enjoyed an early dinner. There were only a few other guests as the place was only just opening for the season. The next morning I took a short walk down to the beach and felt the peace of my destination infuse me. It already began to feel like the journey was worth it.
Another ferry ride, this time on a pitchy boat that took four hours to cross the choppy Aegean, got me to Amorgos later that day. By the time I checked in with the other retreat members for our opening circle, the sun was setting and the candle-filled room overlooking an inspiring view of the sea and mountainous islands felt like a homecoming.
We enjoyed a week of yoga, walking, sunning (with one dip in the still-chilly pool), relaxing. With lots of good food and drink – it was not THAT much of a retreat! – before the next leg of my trip: back to Naxos for a day, where I discovered the beautiful old town with its Portara, temple or gate of Apollo, while dipping my toes in the beautiful white sand beaches. The next ferry was quick – just an hour to Mykonos, where I spent a final night before heading back to the airport.
But it wasn’t over yet! I had two more EJ flights to Milan and then Manchester, where I would meet with my family for a week in Derby and Wales (more to come in another post). That particular leg of travel through Italy brought new joys, one of which was filling out the EU passenger locator form. That oddly devious document, which may be a reflection of the European Union itself, was an exercise in the absurd. Meaning that it was not made for my reality: French national, living in Switzerland, transiting from one EU country to another to visit family in the UK. ‘Originating country’ was one thing but what did they mean by ‘final destination’? Aside from the philosophical aspects of the question, I literally did not know what to put. Manchester? My return flight to Basel? For some reason, possibly down to Brexit, the UK was not an option. So I put Switzerland, obviously not part of the EU but still within the realm of its imagination. Then, after spending considerable time and effort to fill in and download the bloody document, no one even asked for it when I went through customs. Nobody asked for my Covid certificate either.
However, for some reason it was a requirement that passengers on all flights to and from Italy wear an FFP2 or N-95 mask – a first (and hopefully last) for me as I found it hard to breathe. Arriving in the UK, no masks were required at all, so I binned it with joy.
Now I am home and recovering after so much moving about. But my travel muscles are back in shape and I’m already starting to think about our next trip.
How about you? Still hunkering down, already back in circulation or with travel on your horizon?
BTW, if you like the photos, I post a lot more on Instagram. Feel free to follow!
A few links (none sponsored) in case you are thinking of traveling to the Greek islands:
- Ferryhopper, a service that lets you book any of the different companies, with relative ease.
- Naxos, an island well worth a visit — amazing beaches
- Amorgos, more wild and remote but perfectly doable, especially in season
I guess now you have to go to the beach ::) well tried easyjet and the other ryanair once and that is it. Enjoy the trip. Cheers
Back home now but I did enjoy the beach, if not actually swimming in the sea which while beautiful to look at was pretty chilly! Never tried Ryanair either but direct flights with easyJet are still a good option despite the drawbacks. The less time I spend travelling the better!
lol – still hunkering down, but I did enjoy reading about your trip. 🙂
I understand things are different for you, Meeka, both personally in terms of the viral risk factor, and generally in Australia. Glad you enjoyed reading about it though!
Australia in general has followed the rest of the Western world re Covid. I’m just going to wait and see. 🙂
It’s all any of us can do! But I think you guys are behind us on the curve, right? Around here, Covid isn’t history but with Omicron it has reached endemicity. I’ve been exposed twice in the past month — mostly recently on vacation as my daughter and her boyfriend had it. Few or no symptoms. Hope you get there soon! 🤞🏻
I’m glad to hear you’ve had no ill-effects. Fingers crossed it won’t flare up again over our winter. Take care. 🙂
Fingers, arms, legs and toes! 🤞🏻
What an adventure – and such a beautiful destination to make it all worthwhile. I suspect you mightn’t have gone if you’d known in advance quite how involved it would all be. Patience is truly the traveller’s virtue… I’m yet to get on a plane, even within the State, preferring the cocoon of my car but the idea of visiting the UK and Europe keeps rearing its head so we’ll bite the bullet sooner rather than later, I think. A trip with trepidation!
You’ll be back in circulation it before you know it, methinks. A certain degree of preparation helps, but I guess travel is ultimately like cooking: ‘it should be entered into with abandon or not at all’!
You had the patience of a saint
(which I ain’t)
and the determination
of the younger generation
(which gives me no complaint)
but I am one of those fellas
who, of your travels, is jealous!
Patience, I have learned,
is a virtue hard earned.
As long as these old bones can get around,
the world shall be my playground!
💙 🤗 ✈️
Ah, we’re off ion our travels next week, involving train and boat and plane, so your woes do not fill me with deep joy as we have a few difficult connections en route. But I hope we will find, as you so clearly have, that it was worth it.
I am sure you will find the trip well worth it! 😎 May your travels be with as few bumps as possible. Forewarned is forearmed as they say. Bon voyage!
Lovely to read about your trip!! I’d wondered what happened to your weekly posts, then saw on Instagram that you’d gone to Greece and thought “Good on her!”. Glad you had such a wonderful time!! 🙂
Thanks, Andreas! I’ve slacked off recently with the regular posts. Hoping to get back to more regular updates as life returns to some semblance of normal. Still feel kind of like everything is up in the air…
Well done you for doing it, and it sounds as if you had a great time. Someone once said it’s better to travel than to arrive. I am of the completely opposite opinion! We haven’t been on holiday for about three years, but a trip to Cantal is planned. Not that far from home, but it’s a start.
I could not agree more about arriving. 😁 The important thing now is to get back into circulation again, whether close to home or further afield. It did me great good to cross a few borders again, as much psychologically as anything. We are planning a couple of trips this year so I needed to get my feet wet.
I totally agree with you that the getting there or the planning isn’t always fun especially now that not all options are readily available. We haven’t traveled much but have started easing into it with a trip to Mexico in November and a 3-weeks stay in Guadeloupe in March/April. We have just started posting our pictures from Guadeloupe. Glad you had such a great time despite some of the hurdles; we also have filled-out documents that were never looked at…a bit of a pain. (Suzanne)
Glad to hear you’re getting out again, Suzanne. Warm destinations like Mexico and Guadeloupe are a good start! Look forward to checking out the latest set of pictures. And I may dig through your archives for inspiration — you and Pierre are so well-travelled and we are looking to plan a 3-4 week trip in November. Possibly SE Asia, where I’ve never been at all. Travel will continue to be challenging but I suppose we will have to put up with it!
Don’t know that we have any posts on SE Asia on our blog as it isn’t a region we have travelled to very often. We did a short trip to Thailand is 2007 (before our blog) and we loved it. I was in Hanoi in 1990 for work and also really enjoyed it. That’s the extent of our experience in that region. I realize now that we have to put it on our plans soon…
Yes, I looked back quickly through your posts from ‘other countries’ and realised the big trip you made a few years ago was to India rather that SE Asia. I did rediscover your post on Hanoi, which I had ‘liked’ several years ago. I have been following your adventures for some time! ❤️
You went on an adventure. I’m not sure I have your patience for travel. I know that I’ve heard a few other people talk about the absurdities of the EU passenger locator form. And then to not even have someone check it, piffle I say. Your photos are stunning. I’m glad you had a good time overall. No travel for me, yet.
It did feel like an adventure and I’m glad I went, even though there were frustrations. My mental batteries feel recharged, and that is what I needed. Hopefully you’ll be inspired to travel again soon once this pandemic-panic is past. Small steps!