Fat Tuesday: a conspiracy of fêtes

Lyonnaise 'bugnes'In which the writer rails against the unfairness of living in a country where one fattening fête follows another.

No sooner have we reached the end of January in France, with its endless toasts to the new year, its galettes des rois dripping with frangipane, than a new period of excess and indulgence presents its contingent of calorie-laden treats.

It’s all very well for the pious among us: they’ll be cutting back during Lent. But for us non-believers, it’s just another excuse to eat more sugar and fat.

The high-carb period of crêpes, gaufres (waffles), bugnes and other fattening treats begins on February 2nd, with la chandeleur (Candelmas) and continues with Mardi Gras, aka Carnaval. Literally: Fat Tuesday.

If that weren’t sufficient dietary suicide, it coincides with winter break, when most of France heads for the ski slopes to indulge in cheesy dishes like fondue, raclette, tartiflette. All washed down with a few glasses of your favorite white or red.

Mardi Gras marks a critical point in the calendar for my new year’s resolutions. If I reach the end of February without getting on some kind of track – treadmill or otherwise – along with curtailed drinking, healthier eating, exercising and sticking to a discliplined work routine, it’s just one downhill slide until the end of the year.

It’s a fairly small window, and I resent the fact that yet another fête manages to compromise my willpower.

But compromise it does. When we moved to Lyon some years ago, I discovered not just beignets – the French grandaddy of the donut – but bugnes, a lighter, crispier version dusted with icing sugar.

Mardi Gras is as much about extravagance and letting go as it is about food. The first time I experienced this was when my kids were in primary school in Lyon. It was a strict and sedate environment in which even the youngest children filed out the doors obediently at the end of the day.

Until Carnaval. Now that was a party. I barely recognized the schoolyard – a colorful, noisy confusion of costumed kids and red-faced adults.  Even the normally uptight headmistress was throwing confetti and looked like she was a few bugnes to the wind.

Pancake Tuesday was what we always called this holiday when I was growing up. I loved it for the fact it was the one day of the year that we could have pancakes for dinner. None of your thin, rubbery crêpes: we Canadians are raised on big, thick, fluffy pancakes, preferably with a nice knob of butter and a good dousing of maple syrup. Oh, and a side of bacon!

But it kicked off Lent, that loathed time of repentance during which we were expected to voluntarily give up something we loved. No amount of Easter chocolate could compensate.

The thing is, I hate giving things up. I’d much rather do penance by adding things in. The idea of self-sacrifice and denial invoke outrage and a sense of injustice in me. So I add on rather than subtract.

The problem in France is that there is a seemingly unlimited number of ways in which to add on, and very few in which to subtract.

So I’ll walk an extra half-hour rather than taking the tram. Pump up my level on the elliptical. Anything rather than refuse to indulge in something wonderful and delicious and fun.

Bugne, anyone?

By the way, if you’re interested, here’s the recipe.


  1. davidprosser · February 27, 2014

    A woman after my own heart. Only I hope yours is in better condition.If it looks sweet, eat it !, hence the dent in the lid of the tin of chocolates I’ve had since Christmas. Now that’s willpower fr you, it’s still unopened. I really must grow my nails.
    xxx Huge Hugs xxx

    • MELewis · February 27, 2014

      Ha, ha….living in this country really is for the strong of heart! Bises!

  2. cheergerm · February 27, 2014

    Have eaten beignets but not bugne! They look delicious. I admire the way in which you aim your denial at addition and not subtraction.

    • MELewis · February 27, 2014

      They’re good but not so exciting, once you get past the icing sugar… Just hope the addition doesn’t show up on the scale!

  3. Carolyn Bois · February 27, 2014

    I really enjoyed this one – and I love bugnes !

    • MELewis · February 27, 2014

      Merci M’dame! Hope you get to enjoy some authentic Lyon bugnes this week.

  4. aminutewithmama · February 27, 2014

    OHHH SOOO making this. 🙂 Thanks for the recipe!!

  5. Multifarious meanderings · February 28, 2014

    I nodded my head all the way through this. I love galettes des rois, and now I’ve got my hands on the recipe, we eat them regardless of the time of year. Oops.
    French women’s waistlines appear to be programmed to take this regular intake of calories in their stride. Do you know Wondeure Woomane? She’s the one at the school carnaval fête who makes organic bugnes and beignets for everyone else, but doesn’t eat any herself because she’s got her beady eye on the scales for the summer swimming pool sessions.

    • MELewis · March 1, 2014

      Et oui — there’s one in every school. I don’t know how the Frenchwomen do it. They seem to stay slim, well-groomed, never indulge…not me for sure!

      • Multifarious meanderings · March 1, 2014

        I think it’s genetic. French kids appear to start Nutella at the same time as jars of baby food – I suspect they sneak up on their bodies early to convince their system that fat and sugar are actually broccoli and cabbage.

  6. cerifully sewn · February 28, 2014

    Even when there is no ‘Fete’ …. there’s the almond Croissant!

    • MELewis · February 28, 2014

      You got me there! And it’s my absolute favorite – unless you count the one that has both almonds and chocolate!

      • Multifarious meanderings · March 1, 2014

        I love almond croissants. Now I want one, and I’m still in my PJ’s. 😦

  7. Oh, France and her fêtes! So many delights to indulge in. I am exactly like you as far as March 1st New Year’s Resolutions. If I don’t get on track this week, it is indeed a slippery slope. However this year I feel excited and hopeful, although I am afraid I am going to have to both add (exercise) and subtract (a few delicious treats). Great funny post.

    • MELewis · March 2, 2014

      Best of luck with your early-March mathematics! I’m sure they won’t stop you from making the most of your time in France. Courage!

  8. Maison Bentley Style · March 5, 2014

    What was it Oscar Wilde said?..I can resist everything..except temptation… xxx

    • MELewis · March 6, 2014

      So true….the allure of the forbidden fruit. My latest strategy is to pretend that everything is allowed and exercise…moderation. Bzzz

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